While the growing need to book campsites in advance has changed the way some grey nomads travel, for many, spontaneity remains the ‘secret sauce’ that makes the Big Lap so magical.
Certainly, that’s what veteran travellers Bruce and Kathy Mulquiney have found on their many adventures that have taken them across the country and along iconic routes like the Darling River Run, Oodnadatta Track, and the Plenty Highway.
While the couple, who travel in an 18’ Concept caravan towed by a Holden Colorado, plan carefully for their trips, they’re also not afraid to make the occasional trip-changing spur-of-the-moment decision.
A few years ago, for example, the pair were travelling with Kathy’s brother Pete and his wife Coralie.
The travellers at The Granites, near Mount Magnet, WA, soon after deciding to tackle the Great Central Road
They had taken several months to go up through the NT and across to WA and were in Geraldton ready to head south, across the Nullarbor, and back home.
And then things changed!
“After experiencing a moment of adventurous wine-fuelled bravado I suggested that we do the Great Central Road,” said Kathy. “And, after a few hesitant ‘mmms’, it was decided ‘yep, that’s what we’ll do’.”
A sight for sore eyes! Kathy and Bruce were delighted to see Kata Tjuta / Mount Olga … and to be back on the bitumen!
So, after getting their permits approved, the group left Laverton on Australia’s Longest Shortcut … a 2,700-kilometre drive to Winton in Queensland along the Outback Way.
It was to be quite a trip!
“There were so many car wrecks abandoned beside the road,” said Kathy. “Two were even left in the middle of the road … we counted 105 abandoned cars in 300 kilometres.”
Apart from the odd camel on the ridge and flocks of budgerigars and finches at a waterhole, they saw very little wildlife … but they were in no way disappointed.
Writing in her journal, Kathy said at the time: ‘We are in the middle of nowhere! Amazing remote experience.’
But this was the Outback, so challenges were never far away.
First Kathy and Bruce’s 12-volt system stopped working, and then a stony and corrugated stretch damaged their van.
“We found one shock completely smashed and the other dragging on the ground … we have four van shocks fitted,” said Kathy. “Bruce had a spare shackle, he re-attached the shock, but said it wasn’t working much.”
They limped slowly and nervously over the remaining 150 kilometres of corrugations (all up 1,180kms of dirt) until they came across the ‘blessed bitumen’ as Kata Tjuta majestically rose up in front of them.
“What a sight to behold,” said Kathy.
The couple solved the shock problem, at least temporarily, by putting one shock on each side of the van, and also got their 12-volt system re-programmed and working properly again.
So, did the drama persuade the Mulquineys that maybe spontaneous travel wasn’t always the way to go?
“I thought our dirt’n’dust adventures were over or we’d refrain for a while,” admitted Kathy. “But it didn’t take too long to have a change of heart … and to plan and set off on our next adventure!”
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We were doing the big lap, and decided detour and go to Darwin to get a car service. First service was in Busselton. (Pajero Sport) . We were very disappointed with the dog rules in Darwin. Couldn’t take our Cavoodle to any markets, and restrictions everywhere. Should have booked the service in Longreach. So if you plan to visit Darwin with a dog, organise doggy day care.
We made the mistake of taking the short cut from Jindabyne NSW to Buchan VIC via the Barry Way.
The road has a famous section called Jacobs Ladder a steep winding section of hairpin bends.
Later on we were slowly travelling over a mountainous section (Black Mountain) on slipper gravel with no guardrails.
It had a vertical drop over one side of at least 700-800ft.
I skidded on a corner, almost jack knifing & in a second saw fresh air as we were going to plunge over the side into the abyss.
Luckily the camber on the gravel took us to the other side of the road & we slammed into a vertical embankment bending our bull bar & the front mudguard.
Never again!