While often referred to as the gateway to Hinchinbrook Island, any grey nomad who visits Cardwell on Queensland’s Cassowary Coast quickly realises that the town, with a population of some 1300, is an awful lot more than a simple stepping off point.
Sandwiched between the ocean and the soaring Cardwell Range, the country here is stunning. Out to sea, a number of islands – including Hinchinbrook – are visible; while, to the west, lies mountains, rainforest, and waterfalls.
Sitting on the Bruce Highway, two hours north of Townsville and a little less than an hour south of Mission Beach, Cardwell was first settled by Europeans in 1864, when a party led by George Elphinstone Dalrymple arrived.
Sunrise over Hinchinbrook Island. PIC: Tourism Queensland
However, 
nearly two decades earlier, explorer Edmund Kennedy had passed within three kilometres of the townsite on what was ultimately to prove an ill-fated and tragic attempt to travel to Cape York. A port was quickly established here, and there were a series of clashes with local aborigines as their land was claimed.
Cardwell Post Office opened in 1864, a school in 1870, and, of course, several pubs and churches. Today, Cardwell is an attractive town with a number of heritage-listed buildings, and a full range of shops, restaurants, and services.
The Cardwell Rainforest and Reef Visitor Information Centre is a great place to get an overview of the area and its magnificent flora and fauna.
Another must-do is a stroll along the foreshore. As well as eye-popping views out to sea, there are several fascinating attractions including: the Coral Sea Memorial Park, which pays tribute to the Australian and American soldiers who fought in the Battle of the Coral Sea in World War II; the 180-metre jetty; the Colleen McLaughlin Park; and the Bagu, Aboriginal artwork based on the traditional fire story of the Girramay people.
The Girringun Art Centre is also well worth a stop for grey nomads interested in looking at indigenous art, and perhaps seeing local artists at work. The foreshore walk also takes in a number of other fascinating memorials and sculptures, including a memorial cairn to Edmund Kennedy, and an eight-metre copper flame tree, erected as a sign of reconciliation.
The Port Hinchinbrook marina though has had a difficult time since being battered by Cyclone Yasi in 2011, and then being beset by a series of finance and rebuilding struggles.
The best place to get to grips with Cardwell’s history is to visit the heritage precinct which comprises: the Cardwell Bush Telegraph, the former post office built in 1870 which now operates as a heritage centre; the former court house and lock-up; and the old shire hall.
But nature is the star in this part of the world.
Of course, you can take a boat from here to the incredible Hinchinbrook Island, but grey nomads who can’t make it across for one reason or another Cardwell is calling needn’t despair. A few kilometres out of town is the Cardwell Lookout which offers great views towards Mission Beach and Dunk Island; and then, driving along Cardwell Forest Drive into the hinterland, lies a galaxy of wonderful swimming holes, waterfalls, and mountains.
Highlights include the bright blue waters at Cardwell Spa Pools, and the truly breathtaking Attie Creek Falls and Murray Falls. There is actually a nice camping area at Muray Falls, which is about 45 minutes north of Cardwell. Elsewhere, there are several good caravan parks back in town, and Billyana Rest Area, 20 kilometres north of town, allows 20-hour stops to travellers.
What’s not to love?
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