Devonport is literally the first port of call for grey nomads arriving in Tasmania from the mainland, and the state’s third largest city is well worth a good look around.
This is, of course, where the Spirit of Tasmania ferry service docks after its voyage from Geelong in Victoria, and most clued-in passengers are in no rush to head off to explore the other delights of the Apple Isle.
Located on the mouth of the Mersey River on Tassie’s northwest coast, Devonport is 100 kilometres north-west of Launceston and nearly 300 kilometres north of Hobart.
Aside from its scenic waterfront and thriving arts scene, the city of 26,000 people is also full of historical attractions and fascinating architecture.
An aerial view of Devonport and its stunning natural surroundings next to the Bass Strait. PIC: Tourism Tasmania / Peter Bellingham
The first European exploration of the area took place in 1823, and settlers – who were initially met with significant indigenous resistance – began arriving within a few years. In the 1850s, two different settlements – Formby and Torquay – grew on opposite banks of the river and they were connected by a ferry service.
The two communities were united in 1890 and became known collectively as Devonport. The Victoria Bridge linking them was bult in 1902.
For grey nomads seeking to get to grips with this city’s rich maritime history, the best place to start is the Bass Strait Maritime Museum. Housed in the original harbourmaster’s residence, it boasts a wide array of exhibits – including a simulator which allows visitors to test their skills at bringing a steamship into the Mersey River – and a large collection of superb model ships.
A 20-minute stroll along the waterfront from here is the vertically red-and-white striped Mersey Bluff Lighthouse which was built in 1889. The Mersey Bluff itself is a headland of dolerite volcanic rock formed some 185 million years ago in the Jurassic Age.
Another must-visit is the National Trust-listed Home Hill, which was built in 1916, and was the home of Australia’s inter-war Prime Minister, Joseph Lyons, his wife Dame Enid Lyons – the first woman elected to federal parliament – and their 12 children.
The Devonport Regional Gallery, which is housed in a converted 19th-century church and hosts multiple exhibitions, events and workshops – often by local Tasmanian artists – is also well worth a look.
On the western edge of Devonport is the Don River Railway, which takes visitors on a 30-minute trip on a heritage train along the picturesque Don River to Coles Beach.
Also just to the city’s west is Lillico Beach, which is home to a colony of Fairy Penguins. There is a viewing platform here where visitors can watch the birds return to their burrows each evening after a day of fishing.
About 12 kilometres to the south west is the 66-hecatre Tasmanian Arboretum, which is home to an array of temperate-zone trees and a huge range of wildlife and birdlife.
Devonport boasts a wide range of services, shops and cafes, and there are a number of good van parks including the Mersey Bluff Caravan Park, the Abel Tasman Caravan Park, and the Discovery Caravan Park. For the more budget-minded, the local council does allow camping for ‘fully self-contained’ RVs at Girdlestone Park in East Devonport, and Horsehead Creek at Quoiba.
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