Grey nomads getting off the boat in Devonport can certainly do worse than making Ulverstone, 20 kilometres or so to the west, their first Tasmanian stop.
The town, with a population of around 12,000, sits on either side of the mouth of the magnificent River Leven and offers a fantastic introduction to the charms of the Apple Isle.
The area was first settled by Europeans in 1848, and timber from here was much in demand for use in Melbourne and in Victoria’s gold rush towns.
The rich red soil also attracted farmers who grew potatoes, and then established beef and dairy industries. A store opened in 1854, a post office in 1857, and Ulverstone was declared a town in 1861.
Picturesque Ulverstone is located at the mouth River Leven is PIC: S. Group / Tourism Tasmania
The railway eventually arrived, and Ulverstone grew to become an important centre between the cities of Burnie and Devonport.
Signs of Ulverstone’s fascinating past are still very much in evidence today. There are a couple of timber cottages built in the late 1800s still standing, and the historic Furners Hotel – which was built in 1903 – has an imposing presence in the heart of town and is still very much in operation.
While the house of the first European settler in the area, James Fenton, is no longer there, a cairn marking the spot where it once stood can be found at Turners Beach, about 10 kilometres east of town.
Ulverstone’s cultural precinct, known as the Hive, is a must-visit and is home to the history museum, visitor information centre, art gallery, science centre, and the largest dome planetarium in Tasmania.
As a popular tourist destination, Ulverstone has a great selection of cafes and restaurants, and is famous for its antique shops and craft stores.
The beautiful Wharf Precinct – which was redeveloped in 2012 – is an easy walk from the shopping hub. The best way to get an overview of it all is to stroll ‘zigzag’ garden walkway which winds its way up to a lookout offering panoramic views of the town and the Bass Strait.
Other points of interest in town include: the Shrine of Remembrance, notable for its unusual clock tower; the two-storey ANZ building constructed around 1888; and the quirky fountain in Anzac Park.
Another absolute highlight for many travellers is taking a cruise up the Leven River. Ulverstone is blessed with some superb beaches, including Buttons Beach and Picnic Point Beach. At dusk, visitors to Lillico Beach – about 12 kilometres east of Ulverstone – can see little penguins waddle back to their homes after a day hunting in the Bass Strait.
And a trip out to Gunns Plains Cave, 25 kilometres to the south west – is an absolute must. Discovered in 1906 by Bill Woodhouse during a hunting trip, the cave system was formed by an underground river that’s still inhabited by freshwater crayfish, eels and fish. The caves also boast calcite shawls, flowstones and a glow-worm display.
The Central Coast Council allows self-contained vehicles to stop for 48 hours in rest areas … with its preferred rest area in Ulverstone being at Nicholson Point. And there are, of course, also some very good caravan parks.
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